All Culinary Artist Must Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.
A Unexpected Recognition
The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.
“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
A Namesake Creation: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
A Philosophy of Warmth
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Story of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
An Recognition for the People
The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.
