Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
